Huge progress - tank looks great now! I’ll have to remember next time if I have valonia; however, with my tang & angel overpopulation, I have not seen valonia in years!
Well — each tank is different so if you can take a bunch of pictures and upload to the tool, along with pump specs — AI tool can generate recommendations. That said, our eyes are better than robotics eyes right? We can see this in real-time and how flow can affect our corals.
> @sploosh wrote: > Spencer > Based in Irvine. > Been running a fish and shrimp only tank for a few years, finally got brave enough to start adding in anemones and soft corals > 38G Innovative Marine AIO Mini Nuvo >  Welcome and just jump in the deep end - no shark/ blood in the water, just us reef nerds! 🤣 Tank is looking good. Nems are super cool, esp when they multiply exponentially! 😎
Ok - I’m a pessimist! Geez
You’re second, 4 votes behind the leader - nice!! But I’m… https://media.giphy.com/media/jGya4RQ1UNIkKfElNc/giphy.gif
Great job - that was fast! Woo hoo Will give it a try. I love the 360deg view and stress testing. Exporting parts list to order is a great feature.
> @ktran wrote: > There's a site that has that, but you pay major tax for them to do it for you. I'm almost there on pulling the trigger Hey — here’s an idea for you. Let’s have a “8020 Calculator” for WCR members to build a stand? Select the dimensions we want and boom: here’s what to order! In fact, it will generate an order form based on various t-slot vendors. 😁
I got a wood stand (ok, was an old furniture) for my AIO 65gal tank. I would love to build an 8020 stand one of these days. I’m just waiting for @ktran to go first and then he’ll be build mine. Honestly guys - it’s too complicated since the various parts are in the millions! I wish if there’s a “template” (or AI bot) that will order for me? I just want a 48x24x30 stand — show me what I need to order as a KIT???
Nice to meet you @tritonpower and glad you found us. I’ve watched your video til the end - what a cool setup! Your acros are super happy and thriving. I wish I will get there one of these days. Keep up the great work!
> @Drexl wrote: > I use polyp lab genesis blocks for nitrate reduction. It takes done time before they are fully cultivated with bacteria and start to consume nitrogen, but once they do, then it’s easier to add a little back. Types of food will help control nitrate and phosphate too. I have prb 700lbs of rock and those biobricks but considering my fish load, NO3 can be elevated. It used to be 150ppm last year w/o the sulfur denitrator. Anyway, I just did my 4th 50gal WC to reduce metals in the water column. A WC will also put a little dent in NO3 reduction.
@Drexl I’m currently at 15 / 0.13 * 1.53 = 177 based on N/P x 1.53. That’s way above the 50 molar ratio as referenced. My PO4 is super stable since I’m dosing LC at 20mL/day. I can drive NO3 down further but my stupid sulfur reactor has been channeling lately (media clump) hence pushing that down further has been challenging. I might swap out the Aquamaxx TS-3 (bad design tbh) for a GEO this weekend, if time permits.
All the science makes me giddy like a 5yo. I just wish these scientists way smarter than me can reclassify corals as not “animals”? I understand the technicality- it has a digestive system, responds to touch/light, eats their organisms, etc. Just call them polyps..or ok — how about just corals? I just can’t explain to my family members that I breed, cut, and sometimes kill “animals”! 😁
Just to be clear — I voted but may not necessarily for #24. Just wondering if anything can persuade me, that’s all… 🤣 btw: nice shot!
Voted - how much are you offering us in return? 🤣
> @ThatPoolGuy wrote: > iPhone 13 pics not the best unfortunately. I know 3 other people got it. > > How’s the baby stripey doing? lol - hope someone will come fwd. You guys went on a shopping spree, love it! Baby Stripey grew up fast, doubled in size and eating everything.
> @ThatPoolGuy wrote: > Picked this up at the wholesaler trip but didn’t get the name of it. I know there were some other people who bought the same piece but a lot bigger. Maybe someone that bought the same piece knows what it is? The one in the middle >  Hard to see from the lighting but looks like a Humilis to me. Hope others who bought it can chime in. https://www.qualitymarine.com/quality-marine/coral/corals-sps/acropora/a-humilis-green-66137/
Sweet! So you can officially launder money for us for a nominal fee? 🤣 j/k (in case the Fed is reading our cool WCR forum). Anyway - congrats and thanks for all the hard work, @ktran !! 🏆
@Drexl - we should start a poll to see what people do since WC alone won’t reduce PO4, constantly leaching out from rocks & sand. I used PhosBan before but found GFOs in reactors was very messy and uncontrollable! Currently, I can change PO4 from my phone.
I’m lazy so just dose BW PhosphatE directly. I’m not sure if the product is already diluted but given my fish load, 20mL/day is my sweet spot. Agreed, start small and slowly increase based on test results. You should not drop more than 0.05ppm in 24h. I’ve read so many horror stories about people losing fish (esp Zebrasoma’s) due to LC dosing. Jury is still out as to how they dosed it, what product (pool supply?), concentration, etc. I’ve been dosing PhosphateRx for almost a decade and switched to PhosphatE (cause you can auto dose) in the last 2.5 years. Knock on e-wood but I have been super lucky so far.
This is from my Trident NP, clocking in at 0.13 PO4 on average. It’s actually ain’t bad, currently matching Hanna. I’m currently dosing 20mL of LC (BW Phosphat-E) daily into the fleece roller. What are you guys running to keep PO4 in check?
Ain’t bad - glad I can still use the Hanna tester. Well played.
> @Pandoras_Box wrote: > The macroalgae decided to have a growth spurt while I was away. Alkalinity dropped below 7 and phosphate zeroed out, resulting in very unhappy corals. I pulled out a lot of the macroalgae but could not save some corals, including 3 torches. 😭 Bummer - sorry to hear. I would feed heavy and Reef Roids to bring PO4 up. Alk: you’re not auto dosing to keep Alk stable? If not, slow, incremental BRS Soda Ash (Sodium Bicarbonate) would raise it back up. That’s the reason I don’t do a fuge: kinda messy and you gotta harvest frequently to remove nutrients from the system. It’s like socks & filter floss — the crap is still there in the water column until you physically remove it! lol
Here is mine — peak at 8.3. I got a big skimmer and just doing BRS soda ash. I used to dose Kalk via the K2 at night but my calcium is close to 500ppm hence backed off for now. I used to do kalk, 2-parts, and CO2 scrubber on my 150gal and was able to pet pH to 8.3-8.5. Anyway, didn’t see any difference tbh.
> @ktran wrote: > Yeah, that's the only question....the overhang.... Guess it sucks being cheap lol You’re not cheap — you just have different “priorities”. I’m dirt cheap…and poor! That’s a different class on its own. 😢
> @ktran wrote: > Def will add leveling feet. > > I found a red sea stand where the tank leaked. But it's only 24wide and the tank is 26 wide.... wondering if I put plywood or marble/granite on top that 1" will be ok each side.... 🤔 I believe the reason most RS tanks leaked was because of the weak stand. Why would you want to risk it? I would go 80/20 - much cleaner. My 2c
> @Ndrwater wrote: > Saw a thing yesterday from VCA for salinity probes. Supposedly keeps things from drifting due to bubbles and the like. > Let me see if I can find a link.. My salinity probe is sitting in a calm area of the sump, not aware of bubbles & turbulence…
> @ATAquariums wrote: > I'll run from 1.024-1.026 I’m crazy - it needs to run at 1.026 or I’ll freak out! lol
The Apex salinity probe is drifting again — my tank is at 35ppt/1.026SG (verified with separate probes) yet the Apex is jumping all of the map. I even calibrated last week - so disappointing.
> @Leper wrote: > My name is Scott and have been in this wonderful hobby for 20 plus years and previously worked in the saltwater aquarium industry for seven years. Welcome aboard, Scott. Saw your other message re: your tank. Hope all is well and do let me know if you need help.
> @janiners305 wrote: > Thank you! Ours have absolutely thrived once they were moved off the sand bed, and onto the tower. Why? They want more light / flow or they’re allergic to sand? 🤣
Aw dude - that’s awesome! You’re having the AW dose Alk to keep things that stable?
Congrats! Hope it will do well for you. My Trident & NP are constantly drifting and requires frequent recalibration. Curious if you’ve compared the AW vs Hanna? Also, am I reading this right? You’re running pretty low & at NSW? That’s a little worrisome for my taste w/o a lot of room for error. Corals doing ok? @joeoliver and I ordered ours already so awaiting shipment. Hope to get to play with this soon and finally stabilize my Alk. I’m literally testing Alk right now to compare… lol
Aw man - that sucks! Live and learn, right? I suppose you’ll just dose 2-part while waiting for a replacement?
Roger at Tunze is super cool! 😎 Over the years, Tunze’s products were excellent quality, and the customer service matches. I recently ordered a replacement part that got shipped to the wrong address. Roger apologized right away and covered expedited shipping to get it to me fast. He's just as helpful and friendly on R2R and over email. Sorry I missed him at RAP. Hope to catch him at the next one! Highly recommend Tunze. Actually, I’m conserving some wavemaker options from Tunze and recent experience definitely helped steer my decision.
My nutrients have been high lately as well due to heavy feeding for new fish. I’m slowly bringing nutrients down but the damaged has been done. For SPS, I would absolutely snip the dead tips to encourage new growth. For LPS such as torches & hammers, it’s mostly aesthetic IMO so I tend to not touch them unless I want to clean up and make them presentable. For Brown Jelly Disease, I would take the torch out asap and remove the bad heads to avoid further infections. For softies, they grow so fast for me so just let it grow back!
Go for 2 Straton X and you’ll let us know how things go!!! 😁 I’m (almost) all Radion G6 blues so I’m biased. lol
Planted SPS frags on the 150gal. My son designed a new frag holder so made installing frags a breeze!
Cleaned the 65gal acrylic tank today and created a torch island. Now — need to buy more torches!
Oh wow - so beautiful! I lost interest in clams but after seeing these, I might need to get one to satisfy the itch! 😁
> @janiners305 wrote: > Maybe that is our issue. We have a huge derasa we have had for 2.5 years. That one alone is probably 7-8" end to end. We also have one derasa that is about 5", and 2 small maximas - 1 is about 4", and the other about 2". The big derasa constantly has a margin of bright white growth on the top of his shell. Pictures? I love Deresa’s — esp ginormous ones!
My ratio is way off but I don’t think too much about it. I’ve noticed that my corals do well if PO4 is between 0.10 and 0.20 and NO3 under 10. This tends to jump around depending on my feeding mood, esp with 40+ fish in the system.
Sorry I missed this. That’s so sad & tragic to leave this world at such a young age.
> @Drexl wrote: > Cool, it has a melting point around 7.5, so you don’t need a lot of co2 to get the job done. Two things to remember/consider with reborn. It adds PO4 to the system because phosphate is bound to the skeleton and it gets messy over time. > I’m a heavy feeder, so I don’t need the extra PO4, which is why I use the Tunze calcium carbonate media, it’s super clean and it’s just pure calcium and alkalinity. > Btw, I have the same reactor. Guess 3 of us have the same GEO CaRx then! I’ve been using 2LF for years but will look into the Tunze’s CC when I exhaust mine, which is likely a year from now! lol
> @janiners305 wrote: > We've got the pH probe inside the CaRx also. We are running our old Geo 618 I think it is. On our old 135g, this reactor was the best thing we did. It helped the most with growth and color. Hubby is looking at the Kamoer FX-STP2 I think right now...we are just running the needle valve at the moment. GEO makes really nice, high-quality products. If possible, I would add a second chamber to degas the low pH coming out of the reactor. I have a CR618 +SMC618 on the 150gal. Yes, I absolutely love calcium reactors - they’re super low maintenance, once dialed in! 😁 Check out this thread re: peristaltic pumps. I have no affiliation with this vendor/product. I’ve just ordered it as well since it’s $70 cheaper than my previous order. https://westcoastreefers.com/thread/cmthf6udn0002l4nt2ag10u91?page=1#r-cmuc45xuq0002kdy9ug8k43o4
> @janiners305 wrote: > We used to, back before we took a break from the hobby. We didn’t intend on jumping back in, so sold/gave away a lot of our old stuff. Hubby kept this one tank just in case. There’s a place like 5 mins away from us that we fill it at. > > I don’t know if this method is a usual method, or his own invention, but I’ve been testing straight from the drip line, and testing the alk in the display. I don’t know what magic number he is trying to achieve between the 2. I’m just the tester lol. > > We are trying to reduce AFR usage. Our alk had fallen to 7.3, but after having the CaRx online over night, it has come up to 7.8. Once we are in the 8s again, we are dialing back the AFR and testing again to make sure it holds steady. That works - I believe comparing the stuff out of the effluent vs the tank is a well/proven method. I have a pH probe inside the CaRx and make sure to cut off the CO2 if pH ever fall under 6.5, the media will be mushy if under 6. To tune it, I just change one thing (the Kamoer) based on the tank’s alk: increase flow if alk is low, decrease flow if higher than desired. I can get Alk to be pretty stable but got bored and did kalk & soda ash recently, trying to chase pH! lol
> @janiners305 wrote: > Got the co2 canister refilled today, and hubby finished setting up the CaRx, so now that’s online. Just gotta get it dialed in. You don’t have an extra one to just swap? I have 2 just in case. Also, curious how you tune the CaRx?
FYI https://a.co/d/0eGwDybF
65gal: cleaned the acrylics, moved some frags around 150gal: cleaned the glass, knocked off all asterina’s that are HODL due to the Harlequin shrimp from @Drexl 550gal: rescued the Regal from the Passer’s attack!
I’ve removed the old Vertex skimmer in the kitchen tank and replaced with a Deltec fleece roller - yes, I totally appreciate the silence you’re referring to. In my big tank, I got a BK Supermarin 300 - it’s quiet since other fans are louder than it! lol Even with a DC pump, you will still hear some hums and bubble sound. It’s just how much you’re willing to tolerate. If you want complete silence like before, I would just go fleece roller as a compromise. However, only skimmers can remove DOC though. Depending on your bioload, is a skimmer really necessary? Also, anside effect of pH boost - worth it?
> @dooly wrote: > I think the guts of that unit are the same as the hydros sole. I run two of them ‘solely’ for dosing kalk and they’ve been bulletproof Nice. For peristaltic needs, these units have served me well. They are a workhorse and super quiet. I bought several feet of the replacement tubing and Molykote for easy replacement. For fixed amount dosing via a schedule, I like my DOS (the UI is a little cumbersome, imo) since all dosing data is within Fusion for ease of admin & visualization.
